Organizing: Paperwork & Filing Systems

How to Hide Your Water Heater: IKEA KVARTAL System

Update 8/26/15:  We've received a couple of comments in regards to this solution being a potential fire hazard or fire code violation.  We did not initially take this into consideration as the curtains never actually touched the water heater.  However, as one reader mentioned, there may be minimum clearance requirements within your insurance policies & fire codes.  We recommend that you research your local fire codes before implementing this system just in case.

**********************************************

The water heater - it’s necessary, but not very attractive to look at.  Our water heater happens to be located in the corner of our laundry room which is very spatially challenged.  As a result, we had to think of a creative way to disguise it without taking up a lot of space (and we needed to be able to access it easily if needed).

One day while we were browsing @ IKEA we saw a curtain track that can be mounted from the ceiling……sold!

We spent a few minutes (OK, maybe more like 30 minutes) figuring out which pieces we would need to buy.  IKEA can be confusing @ times, no?

We began by installing the ceiling fixture pieces.  First, we removed the bottom pieces from the ceiling fixtures:

TIP:  There are no screws or anchors included - so make sure you buy some anchors/fasteners that will work for your ceiling  

We decided to go with a toggle bolt - just to be sure it stayed put.  After we removed the bottom piece, we inserted the screws through the fixture like this:

We drilled pilot holes into the ceiling & then attached the anchors to the ceiling.

Next, we put together the tracks together using the connector pieces.  (Remember, we had already slid all of the bottom pieces from the ceiling fixtures into the tracks):

Next, we slid all of the white plastic gliders onto the tracks & then attached the end pieces:

The track portion is ready to go!

    

Then we simply attached the track portion to the ceiling fixtures by using the small Allen wrench.  We did not take any pictures @ this point - but here's a photo from IKEA which illustrates this step:

After Mel ironed the window panels, we began to attach the drapery clips.  We did not use the white plastic hooks that came with the gilders.  Instead, we bought a pack of the stainless steel RIKTIG curtain hooks with clips:

We ended up buying the window panels from IKEA as well.  They are 98” tab top panels - we got them extra long so that we could hem them to the perfect length (which, thus far, still hasn't happened).  We obviously didn't utilize the tab tops - they are just folded back behind the panels:

Before & After: 

Thus far, we haven’t had any issues with the gliders getting stuck – it works great!

It's a super easy & affordable way to hide your water heater! 

Nader & Mel

:)

DIY: Homemade Laundry Detergent

We're definitely not the most green/organic/all natural household out there by any means, but we have made minor adjustments here & there.  A couple of years ago we switched from the generic scented laundry detergent to one that was fragrance & dye free.  While I initially missed the scent of fresh laundry, I felt like all those extra chemicals that were used to perfume & color the detergent were ultimately not necessary.  

Then recently, I started seeing some DIY detergent recipes on Pinterest that seemed even more natural & more cost efficient.  There are many different ways to make your own laundry detergent, but most recipes seemed to use the same basic ingredients with the combinations & quantity of ingredients varying only slightly. 

I essentially chose the ingredients I liked best & made my own version.  Pinterest led me to two blogs that I referenced the most: Happy Money Saver & A Diamond in the Stuff.  So thanks to you ladies! :)

Some recipes called for 2 or 3 bars of either Ivory, Fels-Naptha, or Zote soap.  I couldn't decide, so I just went with 1 bar of Ivory & 1 bar of Fels-Naptha.  I also noticed most recipes called for the regular Oxiclean, but while I was shopping I noticed they offered a version that was free of dyes, perfumes, & chlorine...so I went with that instead.

Here's my version of DIY Laundry Detergent:

-borax: one box (4 lb)
-baking soda: one box (4 lb)
-washing soda: one box (3 lb 7 oz) 
-oxiclean: one container (3 lb)
-fels-naptha bar soap: one bar (5.5 oz)
-ivory bar soap: one bar (4 oz)

OK, so here's what you need to get started:

I started by grating the soap onto some tinfoil, using the second largest slot.  It came out looking like finely shredded cheese - tacos anyone?  Some people use a food processor to get a finer consistency, but the grater worked OK for me:

Next, I mixed everything together in a large bucket & once everything was incorporated thoroughly I transferred it all into a 2 gallon glass jar.  I also bought a stainless steel coffee scoop which is 2 Tbls (the recommended amount per load is 1 or 2 Tbls depending on the load size):

That's it! It's that easy.

With all the ingredients added, it filled about 3/4 of the jar as you can see.   There is a small amount of fragrance in the soaps, which I was initially hoping to eliminate completely, but it's such a trace amount per load that I don't think it should matter too much.

I literally just made this batch a couple of days ago, so I've yet to wash anything except for a load of white sheets, but it seemed to work great so far!  Most of the reviews I've read were awesome too.

Cost Breakdown:

-borax: $3.38
-baking soda: $2.24
-washing soda: $3.24
-oxiclean: $7.52
-fels-naptha bar soap: $.97
-ivory bar soap: I already had some @ home
-glass jar: $9.97
-stainless steel scoop: $ 1.67

Total cost for approximately 15 lb of detergent:  $17.35 

I normally pay around $12 for my regular detergent, but I have a feeling this is going to last me much longer since you only need 1 or 2 Tbls per load.  I'll be back with an update once I do a few more loads - Happy Washing!

Side Notes:

We happen to have an archaic hand-me-down washing machine from my parents, but these ingredients are safe for those of you with High Efficiency washing machines too.

Also, our DIY version is fragrance free.  While we don't mind the absence of frangrance, I would recommend adding a scented laundry enhancer (like Purex Crystals for example) for those of you who prefer that 'clean laundry smell'.   Other than that, we plan on DIY-ing more laundry detergent when we run out of this batch!

Update:  We have been using our DIY laundry detergent for about 4 months so far.  It has been working great for us - clothes come out nice & clean.  That being said, our clothes are typically not heavily soiled/stained.  It's just the two of us right now - no kids or pets, so I don't know if that would be a game changer at all  ;)

Mel

:)

Office Storage: Thrift Store Dresser Makeover

A few weeks ago we posted our office reveal & this week we wanted to include a more detailed post about our thrift store makeover.  This project all started when we decided to turn our formal dining room into a home office.  We needed to find some sort of credenza/dresser piece that would provide more storage for us & work with the style of our existing desk.

This is the desk that we bought @ Pottery Barn several years ago:  

It's really great quality & has ample storage for hanging files & two drawers for small storage, but we still needed space for all that extra 'office stuff':  paper, notebooks, folders, binders, pens, highlighters, pencils, tape dispenser, page protectors, printing supplies, etc...

After scouring several thrift stores, we found the perfect size dresser with 6 drawers that was in need of a makeover.  Now, this was our first legit furniture painting project & we didn't really know where to start.  Google, blogs, & Pinterest came in handy during the research phase.  Like most other DIY projects, there are tons of different methods, tips, & tricks out there.  One blog that I utilized the most was Centsational Girl.  Kate has a lot of painting experience & I chose our primer & paint based off of her suggestions.  

  
Here's the rundown of our first furniture painting adventure....

|remove hardware|

First things first, I removed all the hinges & pulls:

|wood filler|
Next, I filled all the holes, dents, & cracks with a paintable wood filler:

|sand|

After the wood filler was dry, I used an 80 grit sanding wedge to lightly rough up the entire dresser.  I followed that up with a 120 grit wedge, focusing on the areas that I had patched up with wood filler.  For the top of the dresser, I used our orbital sander to make sure the surface was super smooth:  

|clean & prime|

 I used a dry paint brush to wipe away most of the dust from sanding & then wiped everything down with a rag & warm soapy water.  Before I started to prime, I quickly ran a tack cloth across everything just to make sure all the dust particles were removed.   To prime, I used Zinsser Cover Stain Oil Based Primer.  For the drawers & base of the dresser, I used the spray version with a nozzle attachment.  On the top of the dresser I used a foam roller to apply the paint instead:

  We decided to go with 2 coats of primer since it's a piece we'll be using a lot & we want it to last.  We didn't paint the sides of the drawers because we were worried the paint would just scrape off in the end & we didn't mind the raw wood:

|sand primer|

I also lightly sanded the entire dresser after priming to make sure the paint went on an ultra smooth surface - I don't know if this step was 100% necessary, but in my head it sounded legit (don't forget to wear a mask if you sand primer - lots of nasty chemicals are being released):

|paint|

For the paint, we decided to try Benjamin Moore Advance.  We could not find this formula @ our local Ace Hardware store, but they did refer us to a local family owned paint store instead.  The folks over there were so super nice & they even mailed us a handwritten 'thank you for your business' card.  Aw :)

The paint was a little pricey for a quart - it was about $20.  But, in the end we wanted to use the best quality paint for this project...so we just went with it.  I wasn't sure if a foam or angled brush was going to work best, so I tried both.  In the end, I preferred the Purdy brush because it offered better coverage & allowed me to work more quickly:

The paint color we decided on was Cement Gray in a satin finish - we didn't want this piece to be too shiny:

Now that we were finally ready to paint, the weather just wouldn't cooperate.  Since it was too cold to paint in the garage, we brought the dresser inside & propped it up on three 2x4's:

Finally!  The painting could begin!  I used the 2" angled brush for the entire dresser, with the exception of the top & two ends where I used a foam roller instead.  I gave the dresser 2 coats of the Cement Gray paint - waiting overnight between coats.  I was happy to see that most brush marks disappeared as it dried:

Not going to lie, the whole priming & painting process felt like it took foreeeever.  Between our work schedule, motivational/laziness levels, painting, sanding, & dry time - it probably took me over three weeks to finish...maybe longer.  I also think that all the drawers & doors made it seem more tedious for sure.  In the end though, it was worth it!  

|attach hardware|

After everything was completely dry, we began to attach our new drawer pulls.  In our original plan, we were going to add label holders above drawer pulls to give the basic dresser more of an office feel.  That plan changed when I found an option from House of Antique Hardware that fused a label holder with a pull.  Just what we needed!  They have all sorts of finishes, but we went with the oil-rubbed bronze:  

Originally, we didn't want to reuse the hinges, but it was difficult to find replacements that fit in the existing notches & lined up correctly to the holes.  Call it lazy & impatient - we just did not have any steam left to modify the doors to accommodate new hinges.  So, for now we are using the existing hinges that I spray painted oil-rubbed bronze:

No project is ever 100% hiccup-free though, right?

Something you can't tell from the photos is that some of the screws broke off into the drawer as we were attaching the new pulls...so, three of the pulls are technically only holding on by one screw & we have yet to remedy that situation.  Is it bad I want to just superglue them on?

It also took us a little longer to decide on pulls for the doors.  I actually liked the pulls  that came with the dresser & I was originally going to spray paint them.  But then we misplaced one of them.  We searched all over & could not find the second pull - so we finally gave in & decided to look for new ones.  Initially, we were going to go for simple knobs - until we found these cute pulls that were 50% off @ Hobby Lobby (normally only 3.99!):

As you can see, the metal color was more of a brass finish - so I simply spray painted them an oil-rubbed bronze finish:

|details|

We also lined the drawers with gray & white chevron wrapping paper from Home Goods.  I stuck some double-sided tape in all the corners to keep the paper in place:

We are still debating if it's necessary to apply a topcoat of wax or polyurethane...suggestions welcome!

Functionally speaking, we have so much more storage for all our office supplies now:

 Some Before & Afters:  

We really like how it turned out.  We are almost 100% finished with this makeover. 

We still need to:

• turn the bottom drawer (behind the doors) into a pull-out printing station
• finish attaching 3 of the drawer pulls
• add labels into the drawer pulls

For now, we're taking a break from the dresser & I'm working on organizing all the contents of our office instead - so excited to get our life back in order!  Piles of mail & paperwork devouring our kitchen counter stresses me out.

More office related posts coming soon...

Until then!

Mel 

:)

How to Install: IKEA ALANG Ceiling Lamp

We get a lot of traffic to our blog through the search inquiry: 'how to install IKEA ALANG'.  Interestingly enough, we had some questions ourselves when we installed the larger 18" version in our laundry room several months ago.  We were about to install two of the smaller 14" ALANG lights in our upstairs hallway, & figured it would be a good opportunity to create a photo tutorial.

If you've ever put anything together from IKEA you'll know all about their lovely pictorial instructions that they include.  You may (or may not) find them easy to follow.  Hopefully the IKEA instructions, coupled with this post should get the job done!

First, make sure you have all of the pieces:

Of course, you also want to make sure the light switch & breaker are turned off before you begin.  

Unscrew the old fixture from the ceiling plate (don't lose those screws).  
You will be left with three wires typically- we had 1 copper, 1 white, & 1 black:

Once you have all the components out, you can begin to put the ALANG light together.
Start by fitting the sockets into the white plastic fixture:

Secure the white wires into the slots provided.  We had to push fairly hard to get them to stay in place:

Next, attach the 3 magnetic pieces into the slots: 

Now you need to string the white wire through the metal plate (metal hook facing down & green/yellow wire up).  We forgot to take a photo at this point, but these IKEA instructions illustrate that step:

Next, you need to connect the correct wires together.  

The IKEA directions illustrate the fixture having 1 black, 1 white, & 1 striped wire:

However, the actual fixture has 2 white wires - not 1 black & 1 white.  We knew that the striped wire represented the green/yellow wire & should be connected to our copper wire (ground wire).  However, we weren't sure if the 2 white wires were different from one another.  Why would IKEA show 1 black & 1 white wire if they were the same thing?  Did this confuse anyone else also?

So we did a little research (AKA-call dad & search Google) & this is what we came up with:

Apparently, if the manufacturer provides a fixture with 2 white wires then it shouldn't matter which wire goes where.  It seems that the way the electricity flows (polarity) does not matter in this type of fixture.  As long as the ground wires (copper & green) are connected together you should be good to go.

[Clearly, we are not electricians- just homeowners trying to DIY.  If you are unsure about your electrical situation at home and/or it looks totally different than our set-up, you should definitely consult a professional.]

Next, secure all the twist on wire connectors tightly:

Then gently shove all the wires back into the electrical box & screw the metal plate back on with your existing screws: 

 After the plate is secure, hang the plastic zip tie from the metal hook.  Make sure the side with the ridges is facing the correct way: 

Now you can go ahead & slide the zip tie through the opening on the white plastic fixture: 

Next, run the round plastic piece up the zip tie & flush to the white piece to secure it:

Tuck the end of the zip tie into the slot & add two light bulbs.  

At this point, you should also test the light out before you put the shade on:

To finish, simply line up the 3 magnetic spots on the shade to the 3 magnetic pieces on the fixture....

and voila!

Here's a little Before & After action:

So much better!

 If you'd like to see the larger 18" version we installed in our laundry room click here.

Hopefully, if you had similar questions as we did, you will find this post helpful.
If you have any questions, please let us know!

Mel & Nader

:)